INSTALLATION OF 12''X12'' TILES

Mirth Studio Tiles are easy to install. They are constructed with a tongue and groove system which locks them into place.  Simply glue the tiles down on a level, even surface. For your convenience, you can also download these instructions here.

Our tiles can also be installed temporarily over an existing subfloor. Click here for our instructions on installing the 12" by 12" tiles as temporary, portable flooring.

Mirth Studio Tiles are pre-finished with an extremely durable UV cured poly-resin, so they do not need any topcoat after installation.  They are ready to walk on as soon as the glue dries.

If you are handy, Mirth Studio Tiles can be installed as a DIY project.  However, because some cutting of tiles is usually required, we generally recommend having a professional install the tiles.  As there is no finishing involved, installation is inexpensive compared to solid plank flooring. 

The tiles are pre-finished using a UV cured poly resin that is comparable to the highest quality of any high end engineered wood flooring on the market. If you would like further protection for your floors for very high traffic areas we recommend using Bona Traffic in the satin finish which can be applied over your floors for added protection.

The tiles can be screen sanded and refinished multiple times using our recommended product.

  For specific installation instructions, please see below.

·       Mirth Studio Tiles can be installed above-grade, on-grade or below-grade

·      The tiles should be glued down over a plywood or concrete sub-floor.

·       All sub-floors must be level and clean.

PLEASE NOTE:

When ordering Mirth Tiles, please keep in mind that because wood is a natural product no two will be exactly alike. We think this adds to the beauty of the floors and gives them character not found in other types of manufactured tiles. Sometimes the variation is more obvious and for this reason we recommend ordering a 5% overage in case some of the tiles do not meet with your approval. 

The tiles are designed to be installed with cross grains and due to the tongue and groove construction, this cannot be changed. Depending on the color of the tile it may be more obvious than others. Lighter color tiles show more grain than the darker colors.

We go to great lengths to send only tiles that meet our high standards but it is important to understand that wood does sometime have flaws. Sometimes the edges are rougher than others but that is because the nature of wood and not considered a defect. If you feel you have received a defective tile, please contact immediately and we will send out a replacement.

JOBSITE REQUIREMENTS:

All work involving water or moisture should be completed before installing Mirth Studio Tiles.  For any new construction or remodeling project, tiles should be one of the last items installed.

All Mirth Studio Tiles should be kept in the shrink-wrapped boxes until before installation.

 

Mirth Studio Tiles should be allowed time to acclimate like solid hardwood floors.  This is accomplished by leaving the tiles in the room in which they will be installed at a room temperature setting for a period of at least 3 days before installation.  Failure to acclimate the tiles may make them difficult to install.

            WOOD SUB-FLOORS SHOULD BE:

·       Dry and well-secured, with a moisture content under 12%. The bottom side, if facing outside (like a crawl space) must be under 15% MC and a 6-mil Polyfilm placed over the dirt in the crawl space. Adequate ventilation must exist, with clearance of 18″ to 24″.

·      Nailed down or screwed down every 6 inches along the joist to avoid squeaking.

·     Leave 1/8″ gap around perimeter.

·     Leveled by sanding or grinding down high spots and filling in low spots with an underlayment patch as necessary.

·   Preferred subfloor: 3/4″ CDX grade Plywood subfloor / underlayment (Exposure 1), 4′ x 8′ sheets or 3/4″ OSB subfloor / underlayment grade, PS2 rated, sealed side down, with joist spacing of 19.2″ on center or less.    

CONCRETE FLOORS SHOULD BE:

·       Fully cured for at least 60 days.

·     Installed properly with minimum 6-mil Polyfilm between concrete and ground.

·      Dry all year round.  

PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION:

NOTE: With some Designs, tiles will be marked underneath with an “A” or “B” due to the Tongue and Groove nature of tiles. Please make sure during installation that“A” Tiles are connected with “B” tiles to insure proper installation. An “A” tile should never be install next to another “A” tile or a “B” tile should never be installed next to another “B” tile.  

As a first step, the installer or home owner must decide which direction the tiles will run. Tiles are normally laid either parallel or diagonal to the longest wall in the room.

Most installers will snap a chalk-line down the middle of the room and work out from this center line to the perimeter walls.  They will nail down a straight board against this center line to use as a firm, straight base to start working from.  After laying the first half of the room, the board should be removed to do the other half of the room.

It is advisable to dry lay a few rows before actually using glue to confirm your directional layout decision and working line.  Adjustment of the working line may be necessary if the outside wall or other working line reference is out of square.

Tiles should be adjoined in a snug manner.  You may use a hammer and wood or rubber tapping block to tap against the edge and push tiles together.  Never tap directly against the edge of the tile with the metal head of a hammer.

Glue To Be Used:

We recommend solvent-based urethane adhesives:

·     Bostik’s Best, BST and EFA adhesive

·     Franklin 811

·      Capitol Woody 600

·     Stauf Ultra-Mastic PUM-950 

Use the trowel recommended by the adhesive manufacturer, since tooth size is important for best adherence to the sub-floor.  Often this is 1/4″ x 1/8″, but always adhere to the adhesive manufacturer’s instruction.  Your glue warranty comes from the adhesive manufacturer, not Mirth Studio. 

Allow for adequate cross ventilation when working with flooring adhesive.  Snap a chalk line down the middle of the room.  Work out from this center line.

Follow adhesive instructions regarding proper set time (if any) before affixing tiles.  With trowel at a 45-degree angle, spread as much adhesive as can be covered by tiles in one hour or as recommenced by the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

Once adhesive has set per instructions, lay the first row of tiles, butted up against your straight starting board. Continue laying tiles until adhesive is covered with tiles. Be careful not to move the installed tiles on the wet adhesive.

Immediately remove any adhesive that gets on the tile surface by using a damp cloth or manufacture’s adhesive remover. 

 

FINISHING THE JOB:

·    Reinstall base and/or quarter round moldings to cover the gaps between the last tile and the wall. Install transitions pieces such as reducer strips and T-moldings as needed

·      DO NOT allow any foot traffic or heavy furniture for at least 24 hours or as indicated by adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

·      Clean and remove all dirt and debris on floor by damp mopping or vacuuming.